Medieval clothing was a crucial aspect of any ruling empire during the Middle Ages, reflecting both social status and royal authority. Throughout this period, clothing styles continually evolved, largely influenced by the king’s demands and the introduction of new fabrics and materials. By mandating specific colors and designs, monarchs made their empires stand out, while simultaneously differentiating the social classes within their realm. Additionally, advances in fabric technology allowed medieval people to better protect themselves from harsh weather, contributing to overall comfort and wellbeing.
The Early Medieval Period (c. 476 – c. 1000) marked the transition from the fall of the Western Roman Empire to the rise of feudal kingdoms and early medieval culture. This was followed by the High Medieval Period (c. 1000 – c. 1250), a time of growing population, increased trade, and the flourishing of art, architecture, and learning. Finally, the Late Medieval Period (c. 1250 – c. 1500) witnessed significant social, political, and technological changes that set the stage for the Renaissance and early modern era.
The simplest forms of medieval clothing appeared at the beginning of the medieval period, in the 5th century.
Germanic tribes the Jutes, Angles and Saxons migrated to England bringing with them their customs and fashions, after this the Norman Conquest of England change how people dressed and Norman clothing which was influenced by a feudal system became more common among the people.
At the time of Norman Conquest of England in 1066, for instance, Normans wore woollen tunics made in a close-fitting style, sometimes together with a waistband to keep the tunic in place.
Early Medieval Clothing *Wool, Linen & Silk c. 476 – c. 1000
Wool was the coarse material being used in the early medieval period for almost all Medieval Clothing garments, people were given clothes that were suited to their current social status in medieval society, slaves and poorer peasants were only able to use wool for their garments.
Higher level people in the Peasantry class such as Reeves were allowed to wear linen, which was previously harvested from the flax plant.
Linen would now be used for Medieval Clothing instead of wool, this made the clothes more comfortable because the linen touched the skin and not the coarse wool.
Silk was also discovered in this early medieval period, however it was a very expensive material to use and was only found among the very rich, for decorative purposes mainly to decorate Medieval Clothing.
Medieval Clothing High Medieval Period c. 1000 – c. 1250
There were some very significant changes that happened to medieval clothing from the year 1100 during the Norman period of rule.
Clothes were used as a way to recognize someone and to understand his standing in the Feudal system and social status among the group of people.
During this period in Europe, medieval clothing and costumes were simple and the only difference was in the small details. The types of Medieval costumes that were used were mainly divided into the clothing of Royalty, Nobility, Clergy, and Peasantry.
medieval men wore knee-length tunics for almost all activities, and men from the upper classes wore long tunics with hose and mantles or cloaks.
The short costumes derived from melding the everyday dress of the Roman Empire and the short tunics that were worn by invading barbarians, the long costumes were descended from melding the clothes of the upper Roman empire classes and were influenced by Byzantine dresses.
Underclothes of Medieval men’s Clothes consisted of an inner tunic or a shirt with long tight sleeves which were usually made of linen since it offered the most comfort.
Leggings that were made of separate garments for each leg were made of cloth and were worn with a tunic. On the outside, the men wore an outer tunic that reached to the knees or ankles and it was fastened to the belt of the person.
Women’s Clothing 12th Century 1101 – 1200
Women wore long tunics or gowns in this medieval period. A close fit to the body, full skirts, and long flaring sleeves was characteristic of upper-class fashion for both men and women.
The under-tunic of the women was called a chemise, which was made of linen, and over it, a long ankle-reaching tunic was worn.
Women that were working wore their ankle-length tunics strapped to their belts. All the married women who followed the Christian customs wore veils over their hair, which were stationed in the center of the hair and were then hung down in long braids that then made it possible to extend it with false hair.
An item called the wimple was introduced in England in the late medieval period that was made of a linen cloth that covered the throat and was fastened under the veil.
Late Medieval Period Clothing c. 1250 – c. 1500
During the thirteenth century in medieval Europe, clothing became very simple for both men and women. Both male and female Medieval clothing was relatively similar and changed very slowly.
The most significant thing that started happening during this period was the dyeing of wool which continued to be the most important material for clothes.
For rich people, color was a very important factor in their clothes and when the color blue was introduced it became a very fashionable option that was adopted by the Kings of France as their heraldic color.
14th Century Fashion
The fourteenth century marked the start of fashion for medieval clothing for both men and women. This was started when different experiments with different types of Medieval clothes were used to dress a certain individual.
The simple draped garments and the straight seams of the earlier centuries were replaced by curved seams and led to the beginnings of tailoring, this resulted in simpler designs of human clothing that could fit anyone, and not just individuals.
The introduction of fur also made an appearance and was mostly used for inner linings for warmth because this century was hit by a medieval mini-ice age and the weather was very unpleasant at times.
The men wore a few layers of clothing on them. The innermost layer of clothing was the breeches which were loose undergarments made of linen and held up by a belt.
The shirt was the next layer, made of linen. The hose was made out of wool’s main purpose was to cover the legs in bright colors. The men also wore a jacket called a doublet that was about a hip length and had buttons.
A tunic worn over the doublet was usually made of wool. The first fashionable hats were beginning to make an appearance and the previous hoods, transformed into wearable hats.
The women wore a few layers of clothing and the first layer was classed as underwear. A linen or woolen chemise, a loose garment, and the first types of bras made an appearance called the Breast Girdle.
Although underwear was invented, men and women of all classes slept naked until the late 16th century when special nightwear was invented. Over the chemise, women wore a gown called a kirtle that was foot length.
For further customization decorations and other layers of clothes would be added above the chemise and jewels started to make an appearance on women’s clothes.
For outdoors, cloaks and mantles for women made of fur were popular. All married women had to cover their heads to show that they were taken.
15th Century Medieval Clothes – Extravagant and Extreme Clothing
During the fifteenth century, fashion was characterized by a series of extremes and extravagances and the houppelandes were among the first floor sweeping costumes introduced at the beginning of this era of extreme clothes.
The most extravagant clothing during this medieval period was the revealing doublet-sand hose in Italy. Hats, cloaks, hoods, and other headdresses started to increase in importance among the people and thus were swagged, jeweled, colored, and feathered.
For the first time, people strived to be very fashionable among their surroundings, especially women, and the terms “out of date” started appearing to describe other people who wore medieval clothes that were from another time.
Medieval Clothes Summary
Medieval clothing changed dramatically during medieval times from the simple costumes of the early medieval period to the introduction of more advanced materials such as linen and silk which gave more choice later on.
Finally, we had the late medieval period where people had more choice and wealth and this led to a period where medieval clothing was seen as more of a way to show off one’s wealth and status than for any practical purpose.
What materials were used to make medieval clothing?
Common materials included wool, linen, and occasionally silk for the wealthy. The type of fabric often reflected the wearer’s social status.
How did social class affect clothing in the Middle Ages?
Clothing was a clear marker of class. Nobility wore richly dyed and decorated garments, while peasants wore simpler, more practical clothing made from coarse wool or hemp.
Did medieval people wear different clothes in different seasons?
Yes. People adapted their clothing to the weather, wearing layered wool garments in winter and lighter linen clothing during warmer months.
What role did the king or nobility play in fashion trends?
Royalty and high nobility often set fashion trends, even passing sumptuary laws to control what different classes could legally wear.
Were colors important in medieval clothing?
Absolutely. Bright colors like purple, red, and blue were associated with wealth and power, as the dyes were expensive and often reserved for the elite.
