Discover the Art of Medieval Shoemaking and Cobbling

A medieval shoemaker was a skilled craftsman who made and repaired shoes during the medieval period.

The medieval period, also known as the Middle Ages, lasted from the 5th century to the 15th century in Europe.

During this time, shoemakers typically worked in small workshops or as part of guilds in towns and cities across Europe. They crafted shoes by hand, using a variety of materials such as leather, wool, and linen. Shoemakers were highly valued for their skill, as shoes were an essential part of daily life, protecting the feet and providing comfort and warmth.

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Shoemakers in the medieval period had a range of different customers, from wealthy nobles to ordinary peasants. They would create bespoke shoes to fit the individual foot, often incorporating intricate designs and patterns.

The work of medieval shoemakers continued to evolve over time, with new techniques and styles emerging as fashion changed. However, the basic craft of shoemaking remained an important trade throughout the medieval period and beyond.

“The shoemaker was a respected craftsman, and his trade was often passed down from father to son. He was responsible for creating footwear that was not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing.” – John M. Riddle, “Medieval Lives and Times”

Yes, in the medieval period, it was common for royalty and nobility to have specialist shoemakers who were dedicated to creating shoes exclusively for them. These shoemakers were highly skilled craftsmen who would create bespoke shoes for their clients, taking into consideration their personal style, preferences, and physical needs.

Medieval Cobbler repairs shoes
A Medieval Cobbler Repaired Medieval Shoes

The shoes made for royalty and nobility were often highly decorative, using expensive materials such as silk, velvet, or exotic animal skins, and embellished with embroidery, jewels, or precious metals. The shoes would be crafted with the utmost attention to detail, using the finest techniques to ensure a perfect fit and maximum comfort for the wearer.

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What Is the Difference Between a Shoemaker and a Cobbler?

In modern usage, the terms “shoemaker” and “cobbler” are often used interchangeably to refer to someone who makes and repairs shoes. However, historically, the two terms referred to slightly different occupations within the shoemaking trade.

“The shoemaker’s workshop was a hub of activity, with apprentices and journeymen working alongside the master craftsman to create shoes for a wide range of customers.” – Richard W. Barber, “The Penguin Guide to Medieval Europe”

A shoemaker was typically someone who specialized in making new shoes from scratch, starting with cutting the leather and ending with a finished shoe. Shoemakers would often work in small shops or as independent craftsmen, using specialized tools and techniques to create high-quality footwear.

A cobbler, on the other hand, was someone who specialized in repairing shoes, rather than making new ones. Cobblers would typically work in small shops or stalls, repairing shoes by stitching up holes, replacing worn-out soles or heels, and making other repairs to extend the life of a pair of shoes.

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In practice, the roles of shoemakers and cobblers often overlapped, particularly in smaller towns or rural areas where there might not be enough demand for a dedicated shoemaker or cobbler. However, historically, the two terms referred to slightly different roles within the shoemaking trade.

Specialist shoemakers for royalty were considered to be prestigious and highly sought after positions, and were often held by members of established shoemaking families or guilds. The shoes they produced were not only functional but also symbols of wealth and status, reflecting the wearer’s position in society.

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Peasants in the medieval period would wear a variety of different types of shoes, depending on their region, climate, and occupation.

Common Types of Shoes Worn by Medieval Peasants:

Clogs – Wooden shoes with leather straps or uppers, used for work in muddy or wet conditions.

Turnshoes – Soft, leather shoes with a simple design, laced or tied at the ankle. Turnshoes were comfortable and easy to make, and were worn by many medieval people, including peasants.

Sabots – Similar to clogs, but made entirely of wood, sabots were worn by peasants in France, Belgium, and the Netherlands.

Brogues – Simple leather shoes with perforations or patterns in the leather to allow water to drain out. Brogues were worn by many medieval people, including peasants.

Hosen – Long, tight-fitting stockings or leggings made from wool or linen, worn with turnshoes or other simple shoes.

Sandals – Simple leather sandals with straps or thongs, worn in warmer weather.

Moccasins – Soft, slip-on shoes made from animal hides, worn by some Native American and Inuit peasants in North America.

It’s worth noting that the types of shoes worn by peasants would vary widely depending on their region and culture, and that these examples are just a small selection of the many types of shoes that would have been worn by medieval peasants.

Types of Shoes Worn by Royalty and Noblity

In the medieval period, the type of shoes worn by royalty varied depending on the time period, region, and social status of the individual. Here are some examples of shoes that were worn by royalty in the medieval period:

Poulaines – Long, pointed-toe shoes with exaggerated tips, often worn by men in the 14th and 15th centuries. Poulaines could be quite extravagant and were often decorated with gold or silver thread.

Crakows – Similar to poulaines, but with even longer and more exaggerated toes, crakows were worn by both men and women in the late 14th and early 15th centuries.

Chopines – High platform shoes worn by women in the 16th century, particularly in Italy and Spain. Chopines could be quite tall, with some reaching heights of up to 30 inches (76 cm).

Buskins – Soft, leather boots worn by both men and women in the medieval period, particularly in the later Middle Ages. Buskins could be decorated with embroidery or other embellishments.

Embroidered slippers – Soft, slip-on shoes made from velvet or other luxurious materials, often decorated with intricate embroidery or jewels.

Hessian boots – High, military-style boots worn by some European monarchs in the 18th and 19th centuries.

What was a Cordwainer?

In the medieval period, a cordwainer was a highly skilled shoemaker who specialized in making luxury shoes from high-quality leather, typically for the upper classes of society. The term “cordwainer” comes from the French word “cordovan,” which refers to a type of fine-grained leather made from goatskin.

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Cordwainers were often members of guilds or professional organizations, and they typically worked in larger workshops or factories than other shoemakers. They were known for their high level of skill and attention to detail, and they often created custom-made shoes that were tailored to the specific needs and preferences of individual clients.

“The medieval shoemaker was a skilled artisan who used traditional tools and techniques to create footwear that was both practical and stylish. His work was essential to the everyday lives of people from all walks of life.” – Ian Mortimer, “The Time Traveller’s Guide to Medieval England”

In addition to making shoes, cordwainers also worked with other leather goods, such as gloves, belts, and purses. They were highly respected members of their communities, and their skills were often passed down from generation to generation within families or apprenticeships. Today, the term “cordwainer” is still used to refer to a skilled shoemaker who specializes in high-quality leather footwear.

It’s important to note that the types of shoes worn by royalty would have been highly influenced by fashion trends of the time, and would have varied widely depending on the individual’s personal taste and social status.

In the medieval period, shoemaking was a skilled craft that required extensive training and specialized tools. Here is a general overview of the process a shoemaker would follow to make shoes:

Measuring the foot – The shoemaker would first measure the customer’s foot to ensure a proper fit. This could be done by tracing the outline of the foot on a piece of paper, or by using a foot-shaped wooden form called a “last.”

Cutting the leather – Using a sharp knife, the shoemaker would cut the leather into pieces according to a pattern or template that they had created. The pieces would include the sole, the upper (the part that covers the top of the foot), and any other decorative elements.

Stitching the upper – The shoemaker would then stitch the upper to the sole using a variety of techniques, such as a simple whip stitch or a more complex welt stitch. This would create a basic shoe that could be tried on for fit.

Adding details – Once the basic shoe was complete, the shoemaker could add any decorative details, such as embroidery, beading, or embellishments made from precious metals.

Finishing – Finally, the shoemaker would finish the shoe by smoothing and polishing the leather, adding any necessary straps or closures, and ensuring that the shoe fit the customer’s foot comfortably.

The process of shoemaking would vary depending on the type of shoe being made, the materials being used, and the skill level of the shoemaker. However, the general steps outlined above would have been common to most shoemaking processes in the medieval period.

Shoemakers in the medieval period used a variety of specialized tools to cut, shape, and sew leather. Here are some examples of tools that a medieval shoemaker would typically use:


Awl – A pointed tool used to punch holes in the leather for stitching.

Last – A wooden or metal form used to shape the leather into the desired shape.

Cutting knife – A sharp blade used to cut the leather into the required pieces.

Pliers – Used to grip and manipulate the leather while stitching or shaping.

Hammer – Used to pound the leather and drive nails or tacks.

Needle – Used to sew the leather pieces together.

Edge creaser – A tool used to create a smooth edge on the leather.

Skiving knife – A specialized knife used to thin out the leather at the edges for a better fit.

Burnishing tool – Used to smooth and polish the leather.

Ruler or measuring tape – Used to measure and cut the leather to the correct size.

These are just a few examples of the many tools that a medieval shoemaker would have used to create high-quality shoes. Each tool would have required skill and experience to use effectively, and a master shoemaker would have had a well-stocked workshop with a wide variety of specialized tools.

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